A Rainy Night in Georgia (The Republic)

We traveled from the Tbilisi airport directly into the wine country of Kakheti, our destination the high altitudes of Sighnaghi, a beautiful town with an ancient fortress wall that runs up and down the mountainside. We had dinner there at Pheasant's Tears, the restaurant/outlet of the winery of the same name.

What sets any meal in Georgia apart from its neighboring lands and perhaps most of the world is its long tradition of table songs. These are sung during the meal and after lengthy toasts that can wax poetic and philosophical and always emotional. The singing tradition is a national treasure, and uniquely, it is polyphonic and predates the coming of the Christian church.

What sets any meal in Georgia apart from its neighboring lands and perhaps most of the world is its long tradition of table songs. These are sung during the meal and after lengthy toasts that can wax poetic and philosophical and always emotional. The singing tradition is a national treasure, and uniquely, it is polyphonic and predates the coming of the Christian church.

By the way, wine is a long-standing tradition in Georgia, and by long, I mean --are you ready?--well over 6,000 years of it. In fact, many of the grape varieties that are used in familiar European vintages originated in Georgia. However, rather than aging the wine in wooden barrels, it is aged in huge ceramic jugs called qvevri stored underground. (The wines are superb, by the way.)

Georgian food is delicious, utilizing herbs, nuts, and fruits (think tarragon, walnuts, and pomegranates). Although meat is a huge staple, there is enough variation in the cuisine to make a Vegan happy.